I used to get horrible razor burn on my neck and then I would break out and get horrible acne where I shaved. Not a fun experience, needless to say. As a guy with sensitive skin, I take my shaving very seriously. While normal guys bring a can of shaving cream and a razor with them when they travel, I have to have a whole separate bag for all of my shaving tools.
Over the years, I learned the secrets to getting a good shave without irritation. To me, it's extremely worth it to invest in better products for a close shave without painful, irritating, and embarrassing results.
I. PREPARATION
Ditch the can of shaving cream and invest in a higher-end "shaving lotion" or "shaving soap." Shaving cream from cans is nothing more than a bunch of fluff, and the shaving gels are so thick they clog up your razor and make you press harder against the skin. What you want is a product that produces a nice, thick lather when combined with a little bit of water. Choose either a "bar" (usually a round disc) of shaving soap or a creamy shaving lotion that you can lather. [Try Geo F. Trumper's Shave Soaps [in Wood Bowl], Taylor of Old Bond Street's Shaving Creams or Gillette's Sensitive Skin Gel or Foam.]
Invest in a shaving brush and a small dish. Here's where things get weird for most guys. They are not used to having to use these tools in order to shave. A shaving brush is simply a
small, bristle-haired brush that can be used wet to apply shaving lather to the face. Put a small amount of shave cream, gel or bar of soap into a small dish, wet the brush, then swirl the brush in a circular motion through the shaving product to get a good lather. Then you apply the lather to your face with the brush. This accomplishes two things. First off, the brush helps lift and separate the hairs from the surface of your face, making each stroke of the razor more effective and providing a closer shave. Second, the brush/dish combo provides a continuous source of lather that you can reapply throughout your shave. [Merkur Soligen and Santa Maria Novella are two brands that offer nice shave sets for this.]
EXECUTION
Take a shower and use a good face scrub to exfoliate your face before shaving. There are lots of good face scrubs out there...I like the "For Men Face Scrub" by The Body Shop. Taking a nice, hot shower softens the hair on your face and using a face scrub gets rid of dead skin cells and makes your razor glide across your face more smoothly. You'd be amazed what these two simple things will do towards helping you get a less irritating shave. [Try MiN New York's ProEnzyme Trio Scrub or Nickel's Super Clean Facial Scrub.]
Use proper shaving technique. After getting out of the shower and drying off, step over to the sink and fill it up with water. Wet your face and the shaving brush. Add your shaving product to your shaving dish and work up a good lather...spread the lather all over your entire face. Use small, downward razor strokes (no more than ¾" at a time) and rinse your razor in the sink between each stroke. Always make sure you're using a relatively new, sharp razor blade (I prefer the Futur Razor by Merkur Soligen) and save your neck area for last...that's the area where the hairs are the coarsest by saving that area for last, you give the shaving product a chance to work to soften the hairs.
Post-shave maintenence. After washing any remaining shaving product off your face and patting your skin dry with a clean towel, apply a generous amount of an alcohol-based aftershave product. This may burn a bit the first few times you do it, but trust me, you'll get used to it. The alcohol in the aftershave helps to sterilize your skin and close your pores, preventing razor burn. Aftershave products also have moisturizers to help keep your skin protected and looking young. Good ones to consider are Geo F. Trumper's Skin Food to tone and moisturize, Taylor of Old Bond Street's Sandalwood Aftershave, and Solution2 for prevention of razor bumps and ingrown hairs.
By following these few simple steps, you'll find that you can shave as much as you want without unsightly acne or razor burn. It may take a little bit longer to follow this regimen, but your great looking skin will be worth it in the long run.
